Sunday, 3 March 2024

Real Ale Rocks

 Both of us cut our beer-teeth, majoring on "Cask Beer" (or Real Ale...).

The founding of CAMRA in the 1970's as a reaction to keg-dispensed, pasturised pretend ale and high volume dull lagers came at a good time for us.  We're the generation of beer drinkers probably best-served by it because it had really begun gain ground when, in our respective lives, were really gaining a proper interest in it (me probably 10 years later than him).

Don't get me wrong, there was a LOT of cask ale around that was badly kept or dispensed or just plain bland but when you found a good beer, it was fantastic.  Styles were relatively limited:  Bitter/Best Bitter, Pale Ale, Mild (sometimes) and very occasionally something a bit different like a golden beer (lighter than Pale Ale) or a stout, porter or old ale. Nevertheless - I remember being excited at a pub selling Pedigree or London Pride - and positively ecstatic on seeing Landlord.

I'd drunk 6X, Greene King IPA, Butcombe, Totty Pot, Badger, Bishops Finger and Spitfire with equal enthusiasm. If it was well-kept on a consistent basis then it was a solid success.

Then I came across Bath Ales with a new style to me:  the pale, hoppy, slightly astringent 3.8% beer.  After many years of drinking SPA they brewed "Wild Hare" which was just as pale but considerably stronger (5% or so).  I have strong memories of sitting in the garden of the "Wellie" on the day of their launch event and just drinking it all afternoon.

After that, I guess my strongest memory of superb cask ale was Arbor Yakima Valley during an afternoon in the pub with pals.  Truth be told I don't really remember getting home after that - I vaguely remember picking up something for dinner like someone who'd been smoking skunk all afternoon.  Still, no harm, no foul, eh?

I remember my first pint of Harvey's Best but for reasons that were about the company and the occasion.  I remember enjoying it but not much more than that.

Very clear memories of the first time I was taken to The Brewery Tap in Peterborough (was it called that?  can't remember...but it is now) - this was the pre-matchday venue and there is none finer (though Charters runs a close second) - even taking into account The Basket Makers.  Seeing so much Oakham Beer with its range of styles riffing on a theme of bright, hoppy flavours and fantastic thai dishes.  From visiting the BBB in Hitchin, I was acquainted with Oakham beers but this was the most memorable place to drink them (long live JHB, Citra and Dreamcatcher).

Then a trip to the Cask and Kitchen in Pimlico prior to a visit to Tate Britain to see a Henry Moore exhibition.  This was before I scrupulously checked the ABV of the beer I was ordering BEFORE I ordered it.  I injudiciously ordered a pint of Jaipur on an empty stomach - but, good lord, it was amazing.

Since then?  I have more vague memories of cask beers that have made me sit up and take notice:  Dark Star APA (then, but not now), Tapstone Beers (any of them), Star of Eastbourne but in all the perfectly lovely cask beer I drink now (and there is a lot of it) my description of them in the moment is usually "That's nice" rather than "Wow".

However, three times since we arrived a week or so ago we've both almost done a double-take after the first mouthful of a pint:  the first was in the Kings Arms and it was Track Sonoma.  The beer was under 4% bright and hoppy and its taste belied the ABV. Both of us were pulled up short by it.

The second was in the Beer Emporium which we were going to only really because we hadn't been there for a while and it seemed only fair to give it another try after subtly unsatisfactory vists of the past.  It was Wiper and True 'Wild Places'.  Pale gold, 4.3% or so, fantastic condition,  bright and well balanced.  Both of us said "Wow!" and had a second pint.

Third one was yesterday in Martha's - Squawk Brewery Mallard.  Again 4% or so, pale and sparky.  Just gorgeous - again we went back for a second.

I know there's been a bit of a recent cask resurgence with several modern, previously only keg, brewers having a go at cask beers but initially it was mostly 4% brown bitters which we mostly don't tend to drink now but this recent experience is seriously cheering. 

It's not that we don't like kegged beers - we absolutely do - but cask is such a special thing and the reduced carbonation and slightly warmer temperature really resonate with us.

So maybe the CAMRA effect continues and maybe (eventually) it'll shake off the "beardy bloke with a cagoule and a copy of GBG to tick off in" reputation and be seen as something love by a new generation of beer drinkers.


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