Winding Down

 We're at the end of this Bristol visit.

As usual I'm now really looking forward to getting back to our house with its garden (and its attendant chores) but also our day job will be hard but engaging so it's another thing to look forward to.

I've been working solidly on a pivotal funding application which requires a LOT of words and because of impending travel and work obligations we took the decision to knuckle down and grind through it over the weekend.

By the time I'd had enough yesterday, neither of us wanted to go far or take beer or ambiance risks.  We were a little concerned the Barley Mow might be too busy but because it was nice and sunny we thought there was a reasonable chance that the punters would be concentrated outside.

We needn't have worried - our risk paid off, handsomely.

The changing BBF cask beer (NZ hops, 4.0%) was so good that both of us wanted a second pint.  We took cards with us but had no inclination to use them, we chilled (there was a bit of work chat) and just enjoyed being there.  It was a perfect way to wind down.

The second pint went down almost embarrassingly quickly so we were wondering whether we'd end up having 4 drinks but, getting a couple of hefty 2/3rds (him:  Axe Edge, me: Paulaner Salvator) put paid to that, crikey they packed a punch.

Today, we've finished reviewing the bid and I've read the damned thing so many times that I decided that rather than dither, it was time to submit it.  So it's gone.  It'll be about 3 months until I know the outcome - the fund will be oversubscribed by a huge margin so it depends whether it really speaks to them in terms of the priorities.  Oh - nothing I can do now.

Sooooo -our final pub trip, probably in a about 10 minutes will be Marthas.  We'll take a couple of games (probably the one that is about landing a plane), and muse over what still has to be done before we leave tomorrow mid-morning.

(Oh poo, that reminds me, there's not much beer in the house in Sussex..better do that before I leave) 

  

Thwarted

 Turns out we didn't get to Martha's on Saturday - I spent most of the day (and the days since) nursing an uncharacteristically bad migraine attack.

Yesterday I hadn't made enough progress with a funding bid to take it to the pub for review so we just tootled around to the Barley Mow anyway to chill a bit.

I was keeping my beer consumption as modest as possible (I know that no beer at all is the most modest choice - but come on!) so I made unusual choices for me.  

My first was 2/3rd of Rudgate golden beer:  traditional and tasty.

Second I went proper off-piste and had 2/3rd of Floris framboise (3.8%). It was way better than I had anticipated:  my memory of another Floris fruit beer in Brussels was that it was cloyingly sweet and I half expected this to be that.  It was sweet, but it was also tart and refreshing and had a good, dry finish. The BBB and I agreed that it did a good job. Half made me want to try their kriek.

I finished with half of the lovely Hastings Project/Burning Sky collab (I'll bet I don't get to see it when we're back in Sussex next week).  

Anyhow, half of the pleasure in the Barleymow was overheard conversations from a group who appeared to be from St Austell Brewery, showing a couple of US brewers around (this is mostly conjecture).  Their enthusiasm for their subject was lovely to hear.

The pub was buzzing but not rammed, and it was lovely to be out of the house. It was interesting seeing people use the pub as dining room, after work wind-down, entertain business visitors, meet friends, quiet time with significant others - and all this is happening in one place, at the same time.  Awesome, indeed

 

Themes

 I must admit I'd never considered that some of my (and the BBB's) weirdnesses are shared by other folk.

When I was a young person I felt out of place:  academic and nerdy, preferring Star Trek and reading books to  going out with other people, never really fitting into the social sphere at work and then when I tried always saying or doing something wrong.

Now that I'm of ... errrr ... more mature years (I was only just of drinking age when CAMRA was formed), I've finally forgiven myself for my "shortcomings".  My job needs me to "adult" on a regular basis so I need to keep the pretense going with people I don't really know well, especially when on duty or "in charge" but those people who know me reasonably well - including my young team of workers - know full well what's going on behind the scenes.  They share some of the traits with me and it was the privilege of working alongside them which finally allowed me to understand myself better.

So, when I saw an update from Boak and Bailey about an old post they'd recently ported to their blog (before I followed them) I couldn't help but hard agree.  It's something I'd wittered about a couple of days earlier (and they very kindly linked to that in their weekly subscriber update) and it's an observation that the BBB and I had muttered to ourselves about before (the BBB also shares some of the traits).

We used to go to a few football away matches (Brighton and Hove Albion, since you ask) - especially when BHAFC were in League 1 and the Championship (League divisions 3 and 2 in old money).  We went to (in no particular order) Charlton, Millwall, Wolverhampton, Liverpool,  Watford, Peterborough, Ashton Gate, The Mem, Cardiff, Newcastle and Middlesborough - and there may be others, I can't remember.  First order was always to find a decent pre-match pub with food and post-match pub - the chaps usually knew the decent pubs if they'd done away games before but just sometimes it was new to them.  Because I was never "on duty" for finding the pubs, I never found it particularly stressful going to a new place:  there was an expectation of it being busy and seats being at a premium but it was still a predictable kind of unknown.

Going to football introduced me to some of my favourite pubs but if you really didn't already know the pub scene, whether a particular place didn't welcome away fans (even those not in club colours) then we might well go to a "'spoons".  We knew the drill, we knew the beer was good enough and, crucially - we knew how they worked.  You can substitute Costa Coffee, Starbucks and Pizza Express: if you just need to get "a job done" - like having something to eat, going to the loo, sitting down after a long walk - they fit the bill.  I frequently have to remind myself of that when I look at the Knights Templar (which I can nearly see from our flat), or the "London and County" in Eastbourne.

As someone really quite prone to overload (is it getting worse as I get older or is it that I'm less prepared to mask to cope with it...? ) it's important for me to remember that as I realise now, I'm not as much of an outlier as I thought I was 40 years ago.  There are lots of people heading to the 'spoons right now because it provides them with certainty and confidence to enter - maybe in a strange town.

For me pubs are a vital part of my way of winding down after some of the stresses of my work -  the place does more of the heavy lifting than the beer, per se.  When I'm feeling unstressed and up for a challenge, I'm more likely to try something new (I'm hoping to get to the Trevor Arms in Glynde, the Hastings Project pub in St Leonards when we get back to Sussex) but I won't be going on days when my head's too busy.

There are reasons we're heading to Martha's again this afternoon:  There's rugby to be watched and neither of us want to be in too loud and busy a space today so we're taking a tablet and finding a corner to hunker down in with the sound turned off (we're not animals).

 

That Elusive Something

 There are lots of reasons the Barley Mow is our absolutely favourite pub, anywhere (the beer, the staff, the atmosphere, the consistency and our history with the place).

No week in Bristol is really complete without at least one visit there.  It's the first place we go when we arrive, and we always make sure we've done "one last visit" before we leave.

On Friday when we wanted somewhere more relaxing than our hectic day in Bath on Thursday it would have been the natural choice but...Friday.  If there's any day in the BM potentially a little overwhelming, it would be Friday.  In the summer it's not too bad since everyone mostly uses the outside space but when it's cool and damp, seats inside can be at a premium and table-hogging can feel more irking than normal.

No - I'm not complaining about a pub being too busy, I absolutely love how successful any pub can be.

Anyhow, when we were heading out for beer on Friday the BBB said "nearby" and I said "relaxing".

We agreed that on a Friday Martha > BM in terms of relaxation.

We were greeted enthusiastically - although with a bit of "but it's Friday!" When I said that we'd wanted somewhere we found relaxing, she said "that's the nicest thing anyone can say".

We took a couple of small games and made sure we didn't take up too much space - it was already pretty busy with after-workers. 

We were so comfortable nattering about nothing much, chatting to the staff and watching the technical gubbins of running a bar unfold that we didn't feel the need to play a game to take minds of other things - or stop us just talking about work.  

So what makes it relaxing?  It's difficult to tell, to be honest - there's lots about a taproom in a railway arch which doesn't lend itself to cosy and intimate...

It's not a pub, it's a little bit cavernous and echoey and there isn't a choice of cask beer - for me this means all the other things clearly work harder:

- the seating is great:   two lovely snug booths (the BEST pub anywhere to play boardgames);  the high seats on shallow tables near the bar are well designed so the hobbits like me can comfortably rest my feet and allow me to sit opposite someone and not be too far away for conversation;  good areas of seating for larger groups but still flexible; a modest outside area which catches the sun if you want to do "beer garden". 

- beer range is solid.   Quite often there's a guest (cask or keg) and sometimes there's something stupidly strong as good last beer. The brewery beers are definitely getting more consistent and confident. (Black IPA is a cracker).

- The staff are engaging and fun - even the person who is clearly much more reserved and shy gives it a good go. They all run the bar with a level of professionalism and efficiency which is reminiscent of The Basket Makers (this truly is a god-tier compliment). 

- It's close to the flat.  When you're ready to head home, it's a lovely feeling knowing that the journey is a short one.

But even with these things all listed out - it doesn't really cover it.

Bravo, Team Martha and thank you for making my Friday evening a proper "wind down at the end of the week".

We'll be heading there again today - games. Natch. 

Not with a bang...

So, after circling the reputational drain for a while, they've gone.

I guess no one is really that surprised: pretty much as soon as they sold a stake in their business to a venture capital (or whatever they are now) company it was pretty clear what the founders wanted from the brewery.  It wasn't about staying "independent".

I have two very good memories of their flagship beer: 

Punk IPA on cask at least once (maybe more, can't remember) at the Bristol and District Beer Festival where its punch, style and strength really opened my eyes to a different sort of beer.

Being able to buy 8 cans of Punk in a supermarket in Poole when we were staying on Brownsea Island where there's no pub (or shop) and where the last boat of the day leaves around 5pm leaving you with your own company, and that of the red squirrels.  Having decent beer, lighter to carry than bottles, and sitting drinking it outside our cottage looking out at the sea, watching terns and turnstones was the very definition of contentment.

When the first bar opened in Bristol I was keen to try it.  It was underwhelming - not bad, just not really worth returning to.

As time went on the marketing came across as more and more smug and it was grating.  I completely lost interest in them but I really didn't expect the revelations of their corporate MO.

For the last several years I've noticed the effort that breweries and beer places in Bristol and Sussex appear to go to to feel welcoming and inclusive - they might be lying, but it feels genuine.  As a woman who loves beer, I assume I'll be welcomed and treated with respect by those running the place- and I haven't been disappointed for many years.  

Is that effort specifically aimed as a "we're not them" backlash?  I dunno.

Turns out they were all mouth and trousers after all and, to be honest the new owners don't appear to be any better, based on the way the closure of sites and redundancies seems to have been handled.  

The individual investors and the staff have been royally screwed.

There is an extent to which the "don't gamble/invest with money you can't afford to lose" is applied to everyone who puts money into things - but it is easy to be pulled along by the excitement and I can understand why you'd do it.

Ultimately, though, it's low-paid bar staff and lower-level jobholders at the brewery who I reserve my sympathies for.  It's a tough world out there - hopefully in some places there will be other hospitality opportunities, it appears many staff were well trained and most should benefit any other bar.

Running a company is a serious business and needs to be taken seriously by all those in charge - and that must extend to their staff to whom they had a duty of care. It turns out they didn't deserve all the accolades they got for their beer because of their total disregard for their responsibilities...it can't start and end with the product.

The new owners will undoubtedly asset-strip what they've bought, cut the range, brew cheaper but continue to sell through pub companies and supermarkets -  who knows, maybe some cross-pollination of the organisations other business interests will mean that Mary Jane might have a new flavouring.  Many people will still buy it not knowing the backstory or not caring.

It doesn't feel like the end of an era to me - just the inevitable whimper of an organisation who lost the plot. 

 

 

 

 

Return to the Shire

 After a few busy, busy, busy weeks in Sussex and three incredibly packed and stressful days,  I was absolutely gagging to slow down a bit.

I weakened and suggested delaying our departure by a day or so just to regroup but we agreed it was probably best just to get on with it.  So, after a long, frustrating day starting to set up our new building we repaired to Wolf where we initially grumped that they didn't have precisely the line up of beers we would have liked.

Dear me -  we need to have a word with ourselves.  It had been a looooooonnnnnggggg week (on a Wednesday).

Thursday we did our usual schlep to station and the journey to Bristol was as simple as it can be - although we do still do a bit of "remember when the Victoria/Paddington journeys dovetailed?" nostalgia.  None of the trains or stations were busy.  We had about 25 minutes to wait at Paddington, but there were available seats on the concourse...unheard of.

 Obviously we tootled around the corner to the Barley Mow (there is no other first stop for us), our corner seat was vacant although there was some debris on the table.  As I slid into the seat, one of the blokes on the adjoining table shamefacedly removed the debris and apologized for leaving it there.  It made me smile, and immediately the last few days stresses started to melt.

BBF beers on cask are very grounding and 10 minutes into the first pint I definitely knew that travelling on Thursday was the right decision.  Highlight of this visit, though was a keg beer - collaboration between Hastings Project and Burning Sky (the irony, right?) to support Little Gate Farm in Sussex.  I'm looking forward to going to Hastings Project's new pub in St Leonards when we go back down south -  but that's for April and we were still in Bristol in February.

Friday saw us in Unwins and it's already starting to feel a bit less austere - and much more peopled.  A strong ruby mild was the absolute star of this visit.  The door being open was a bit of a buzzkill but as people started coming in from outside I asked Tom if it was OK for me to close the doors and then things cosied up a little bit.

Saturday I learned that Moor was back open when gigs were on, and there was a gig on.  It seemed rude not to and it was lovely to see a fair few people there well before gig-time.  The beer offering was solid enough (no cask reinstated yet) but we were delighted to see that proper "Hoppiness" was being offered - delicious.  New staff took over the bar after the first drink and we had a bit of a struggle with the concept of 2/3rds (they only have pint glasses) but we got there in the end and all was well.

Sunday - obviously Martha for games.  It was lovely to see Bryony and catch up with her.  Again the place was a little busier than we expected - but we loved the fact that it was.  Io, their cask beer is lovely and I think I then made the leap to a strong Black IPA and that was followed by a very strong guest beer.  Nice!

Monday is "review this document" day so the external "office" (aka the Barley Mow) was invoked.  There'd been a change of several beers so that went down well.

First "let's go somewhere different" venue was on Tuesday - we went The Bridge. QPA has become a solid beer I'm happy to drink, having previously been a bit of a Quantock "m'eh"ist.  Only pints/halves here - so we only had two - my second was a keg IPA which had a definite smoked barley taste.  Took a bit of getting used to but when it had warmed up a bit it definitely tasted better balanced - maybe a cask dispense might work better.  Himself had a dark porter - tasted a bit thinner than I'd have liked for 5% or so but pleasant, nonetheless.  We declared it a good visit with excellent use of the space by other punters (not always a given).  I also particularly enjoyed an overheard conversation relating to "Hardingtons" brewery and its relationship to "The Swan with Two Necks" back in the day.  If the conversation had been closer I may have chipped in with the TSWTN/Hardingtons/Bath Ales/St Austell connections - but I just reveled in the nostalgia a bit and realised how long I've been aware of the beer background scene in Bristol.

Wednesday it was sunny but quite cool.  We had hopes that the Cornubia's garden might offer a sunny patch for a short while - but it didn't.  So we grabbed a couple of pints and settled down at the corner of the biggest table in the place, sharing with a chap in the corner and then with another couple who came in later.  The beer here was much more exciting than we expected - with two cracking pints.

Thursday we were meeting family in Bath and I'd suggested The Raven. It remains a lovely pub although I would liked to have been able to have a less substantial lunch.  Just a couple of nice session pints although I believe there are indie craft beers - that wasn't the main aim of the visit.  Catching up with brother and wife was - and that was great.  They loved the pub (they'd not been before despite being regular Bath visitors). It was reasonably sunny when we left around 2.30pm and I'd promised the BBB that we could wander and test one of our old cameras which has been given some tlc around the light seal.  We hacked up to the Circus, round and down to Pultney Bridge and weir - then taking in the Abbey.  BBB was most impressed with the weir and we stood and just watched it for a bit.  

After that we took the opportunity to seek out Electric Bear's little taproom in Shire's Yard.  It has to be said, despite seeing entrances to the yard several times on our perambulations, we had a bugger of a job finding it again and when we got inside from the Milsom Street entrance - we had to do battle with the labyrinth to actually find the place.  Having their beers on keg rather than from cans was a nice luxury and also allowed us to recover both from the perambulations and the socialising.  On the way back, BBB was delighted to be able to track the incoming train from the platform's "staff information" board.  Once a geek..

We were both absolutely knackered by Thursday's antics so today has been a little quieter and I predict we'll be seeking out a quiet corner in a nearby place to end the week. 

 

Mild for the Time of Year

 Actually, it isn't really.

 Today and yesterday bright and clear...and fecking cold!  Even the frogs who have been doing a lot of practice nocturnal cavorting in the pond for a week or more seem to have taken refuge at the bottom for the time being.  Probably wise, frozen spawn doesn't have a good time of it.

After work on Friday we ambled, in the biting cold wind, towards Wolf without really discussing where we wanted to go...a pattern emerging, it seems.

We arrived maybe 20 minutes after opening time to find it pleasantly peopled.

The cask was Abyss Mild -  it's not style I drink much of these days and at 3.4% maybe not a first choice if there had been another style/strength of cask on offer.  All that said - it was absolutely gorgeous and we were both so pleased to have it.  The two pints disappeared quickly.

There's not always a vast range of things we want to try but there's always enough.  Second up decided that Lindemans Kriek (on keg) had to be tried but that we probably didn't want too much, so we shared 2/3rds of it along with a Downlands 4% pale.

Neither of us can ever remember which of the various krieks are very sweet and which have a more pronounced guezeness. Lindemans is very much the former, 3.8% (I think) but loads of body which probably comes from the sweetness.  It was like drinking very nice cherry pop, properly fruity and with a really nice acidic tang. 
 

The 4% Downlands beer, though really nice, balanced and well-made felt a tad thin when contrasting with the kriek.

To finish I had a stronger Downlands (Fire up the lasers...?) pale and himself went with Ascension Cider (Mothership) which he greatly likes.

 This place continues to bring it for us.  Friendly staff, other punters not too annoying, a little bit chilly perhaps but a solid addition to the beer scene in Eastbourne (thank goodness).  When we work closer to this part of town, we'll probably start going on other days of the week. 

 

  

So it's not just me...

 ...I was reading a preview blog post from the splendid Boak and Bailey (it'll arrive on their main blog later in the week).

It's really great to see that they, like us, are not seeing the usual January lull.

OK, maybe it will just defer, but even so - in a very seasonal place, like Eastbourne, deferring of a "locals" lull a bit, will help until visitors help pick up some slack.

This week we've had 

Beak, Track and Pomona Island at Beerarama

Beerme IPA at the Belgian Cafe with a little taste of a silly-strong chestnut ale

Something from Burnt Mill, in Wolf, which I thought was glorious but incredibly grapefruity and I think would probably divide the crowd (BBB didn't love it) - loved it enough that I had two.

Yesterday, we decided to watch the rugby in the Crown where they had three guest beers on (in addition to Harveys Best and Landlord) - certainly enough to make decisions really hard. Three Acre single hop, Burning Sky stout and Kent Prohibition.

It was incredibly busy (OK, Six Nations, Saturday...) and a really enjoyable few hours - supported by lovely gravity-served (I know, I know, but I like it on gravity) fresh cask ale: perfect! 

When I went to get our second beers, I was served by the boss, Andy - "planning for the rugby, then?" - "yeah", he said "thought there might be a fair bit drunk.  He wasn't wrong.  We have a couple of weeks ahead of weekend rugby - I wonder what he'll have next?

The Excitement of Anticipation

 I've noticed a definite uptick in pubs and bars I like (more in Bristol than Eastbourne, but still a couple of our local faves) doing Insta posts showing what beer they have on.

Not sure whether this is just a new person on their socials, whether it's around concerns that in January people might not remember to go there for beer or something else entirely.

But I love it. 

I downloaded and use the absolutely dire "Real Ale Finder" app which almost no one is on (but two of our local haunts and the local 'spoons are)  - it crashes more than it runs but, crucially did drive a last minute change of venue last Friday when The Crown had two (count 'em) guest casks on.  Still - a pseudo useful resource to ensure we're not too disappointed...

In craft places the cadence of keg changes is quite slow so if they don't have loads on we want to try, it's useful to know that.

Knowing what beers a place has on is definitely a way to make me go there, even if my plans have to change.  But does it lose the element of surprise?

Well, maybe but then there's also the hour or so before when I already know what my first drink will be when the anticipation itself is a good feeling.

After 40 years of drinking beer - it still has the ability to excite (and disappoint) but it's never "just a beer". 

The First Pint

 Yesterday was overcast but still.  Today was forecast to be horribly wet all day (a forecast proving to be accurate at the moment).

We were working from home (more bloody charitable funding bids, since you didn't ask), the same today.

It seemed sensible to get out of the house before we'd need an ark so we strolled down to the oldest bit of Old Town.

We'd been to the Crown on Friday and had excellent Bessemer Blonde (Blue Bee) and  Independence (BBF) but, according to Real Ale Finder nothing new on.  So, instead we went to The Lamb, undoubtedly the oldest pub/inn in Eastbourne - and currently the most reliable Harveys house in the town.

I've said before that, despite it's near legendary status, Harveys isn't my favourite brewery but I completely understand the appeal (much Cantillon).  Anyhow, when in The Lamb, you drink Harveys.

We tend to avoid Best these days, even though the BBB's early drinking was dominated by it so we had Armada.  We settled into a cosy seat and caught up on the day.

Within 35mins his first pint had all but disappeared and even mine had a hefty dent in it: given our usual drinking rate this it quite unusual - and especially so with Harveys.  Clearly it was VERY good.

Actually, this morning, I can't remember what it was about the Armada that was so good - maybe it was just so perfectly balanced that it slipped down - much like a really good cup of tea (Darjeeling, black, hot).

The follow up print of Old was more memorably glorious, as it happens but that first pint... 

 

January is Quiet in the Pub, isn't it?

 errr...well, no, not really.

I mean, it's clear that several Eastbourne beer places have taken the opportunity to have a holiday for the first couple of weeks of the year but since we've been back I've been to:

The Crown on a Saturday (busy enough to only have 5th choice of seating); 

Wolf on a Wednesday and Friday (each time at least 2/3rds full by the time we left around 7pm) 

Ninkaci on a Tuesday (not busy but maybe 10 people in when we left) and

The Lamb on a Wednesday which I assumed would be largely empty - but it was not.  By about 6pm, people were struggling to find somewhere to sit .  

I really do hope that this is a sign that, whilst times are hard, people genuinely do value their good drinking places and see them as an important part of their community.

 What it does look like, at least here, is that pubs/bars seem to need to offer additional entertainment quite frequently -  there are DJ nights, live music, karaoke, food pop-ups, quizzes, painting and games nights all held regularly - whilst I prefer just the quiet hum of conversation and a bit of interesting but not too loud background music I do get why people want additional stuff and if it brings people in more often, that's brilliant.

Fingers crossed for hospitality staff this year... 

 

Back with a Bump

 We arrived in Sussex on Monday afternoon - it wasn't a perfect journey because there were some shenanigans with points or signals or something so we had to change trains at Haywards Heath but, since they lined the trains up on platforms either side of an island and the Eastbourne train was waiting when we arrived, it was absolutely no hardship.  Super helpful train staff, too which was brilliant.

Keen to get home, we jumped on a bus immediately.

No question of going out: it was bitterly cold so we lit the woodburner, cracked the fridge beer and hunkered down with pasta sauce from the freezer.

Tuesday I was working from home all day and although the promised deliveries from Arbor and Lost and Grounded were delayed because of weather (I assume) we still had supplies in the fridge.

Wednesday I had to be in work all day so when clocking off time came we pondered where to go:  Belgian Bar or Beerarama would normally be first choice but they're both closed for a couple of weeks.  So Wolf on the Corner seemed to make most sense - 15mins away on foot and even though it was really REALLY cold it was a good choice.

We arrived just as the brewer from Downlands was delivering/collecting empties and we were the only punters.  It prompted a really nice chat with him and the lady behind the bar.  Sadly, we were too soon to drink the cask ale but there was plenty of keg choice from Abyss and another localish brewery so we got our drinks and nestled up to the heater to warm up.  Bit by bit other people drifted in.  With a 5pm opening time on Weds/Thurs it always feels eversoslightly late for our habits but it's definitely our sort of place:  BBB likened the atmosphere to Marthas and I think that pretty much nails it.

The clientele are a partial crossover with Beerarama but not quite as much as I expected.  It'll be interesting to see how that unfolds.

On Thursday and Friday I was out with work and I got variously soaked to the skin and blown about by artic winds so I was in no mood to hang out in the pub.

So Saturday was gardening weather (albeit still chilly) and after that we ambled down to the Crown who had Plateau in perfect condition and Project Babylon spanking fresh - that suited us.  Mind you, the customers there can be a but tiresome and I had to do the full, stern, looking over the top of my glasses warning to one bloke (Gobby the Pub Elf) before leaving.  Sigh.

Still, it's nice to be back. 

Unplanned loveliness

We had Saturday and Sunday pub visits to deal with and, after the sojourn to the far end of the harbour on Friday, we wanted to stick close to home.

We knew Martha's wasn't open on Sunday for the usual "games afternoon" so it was a matter of which day we went to the BM.

Then we got a message from a friend, also briefly in Bristol, suggesting meeting in a pub (she's knows us very well) but didn't want to come into town.  She was around Westbury on Trym so I asked her whether Redland was acceptable - it was.

We grabbed a train up to Clifton Down and then ambled around Redland/Cotham (god, I remember the hills from when I lived in that area) and finally landed at The Good Measure which we'd enjoyed the couple of times we'd been,but hadn't visited for ages.

I was worried it would be really busy -but at 4pm it wasn't. So we grabbed a pint and a seat.  

Friend and her dog arrived - accompanied by other friends so it was  like a proper reunion since, back in the day, we'd all been neighbours - then gradually moved out!

It was a grand way to spend the afternoon and after the buddies had to leave, we had around 45mins until we had to leave for a train.  Something rather nice by Sureshot went down a treat and then we strolled down the road to Redland Station in the dark and cold...and, of course, we were rather early.

We must remember to go back (perhaps when it's not quite so cold) before too long because the getting there, and getting home was easy and pleasant and the pub itself, and the staff therein all lovely and right up our street.

Monday was "travelling back to Sussex" day.  There was a little beer left in the fridge and we'd pre-warmed the house a little.

We lit a fire, defrosted some bolognaise sauce and relaxed.

I'd ordered beer in the hope it would arrive today but I think the weather has caused problems (it's frozen solid down here) because I've had notifications from both couriers saying there have been problems.  Best laid plans, eh?

 Never mind - I'm out and about for the rest of this week so there will probably be pub opportunities... 

Floating Harbour Pub Crawl.

 Whilst I was thinking about the Harbour it was impossible not to consider all the great pubs you could visit in the 3 mile (or so) circuit.  Also, you could get to any of the pubs, really easily from a ferry stop (but they don't run into the evenings).

Starting at Temple Quay (very close to the station, with the the far "other" end of the floating harbour appearing very much like a canal.):

Little Martha's

Unwins

Barley Mow 

Bridge Inn

Left Handed Giant Brewpub

King Street pubs if you're so inclined.

Arnolfini cafe

Lime Kiln (ok, it's a bit of a walk from the water but absolutely worth it)

Three Tuns

Bag of Nails/Cats

Grain Barge

Pump House

Nova Scotia (not my thing just on available beer, but may be yours)

Orchard (not to be missed)

The Junction (with a chance to sample the different Wapping Wharf food offerings)

Golden Guinea

Seven Stars

Cornubia

Kings Head

If after all that your thirst remains unslaked - there's always the 'spoons less than 5min away from Temple Meads station. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bristol Floating Harbour

 In our neverending quest (aka 'obsession') with vintage cameras we'd planned to go out to somewhere sunny and scenic, suitable for a weird little old camera (Ensign Full Vue II).  We already have one of these, best described as a box camera with a little chuztpah.  Its main feature is the stunningly bright viewfinder which shows an imagine far better than the very basic lens can deliver.

Anyhoo...it's one of three old cameras we're yet to test so we brought it to Bristol with us.

The weather was supposed to be quite good on Friday so we got on the ferry and went to the far end of the harbour to see if we could get a decent couple of images of "The Bridge" and Clifton with the sun on them.  Taking the ferry is such a brilliant way to get there (but actually, not really much quicker than walking) and on the way I mused about what this part of the city was like in my teens (70's/80's, since you didn't ask).  I remember how unloved and unlovable it was.  Now it's thriving and lively, mixing old and new fairly comfortably whilst still retaining bits of urban grot amongst authentic heritage and shiny aspirational housing.

The second part of our mission was to go and try The Pumphouse now it's been taken over by BBF.

We took 11 of our allotted 12 pictures (square format 120 film, if you were wondering), started to feel the cold a bit and headed to the Pumphouse.  The last time we were here it was sunny and warm and the previous iteration of the place definitely emphasised the very good food but had lost its sense of pub, to be honest.  Mind you, it was a useful refuelling spot for brunch with friends and the beer offering was pretty good, considering.

There were lots of people out in the sun so maybe not too surprising that it was reasonably busy at 3.30pm. It's clearly early days and the transformation to "proper pub" promised feels like a work in progress.  But, as I'd entirely expect, the beer range was very respectable and the cask beer we had (Dragon something or other) was excellent.  We were asked if we were "OK" with mugs - which was an odd way to phrase it, I guess, but it gave us the easy option of asking for straights -  supplied with a smile.

I hunted around for a cosy corner which was a bit tricky but eventually found a small table which I thought just had two chairs but then proved to have a cushioned "bench" too.  As I sat down I realised that it was atop a radiator (by design) so it was gorgeously warm.  The BBB congratulated me on finding me the best seat available (he was very much chilled by the walk around the end of the harbour).

When I went for a second, I decided it was too early for kegged Wiper and True IPA so he had Independence and I had Joy of Sesh (NBB).  Sadly no 2/3rd glasses were available but the lady behind the bar gamely offered to measure with their 1/3rd glasses which I feared would be a pain in the arse so I went for pints, whilst thanking her for the offer.  It's a BBF outlet so, no doubt, 2/3rd glasses will become available in time.

All in all, it was a nice place to go but it's not proper pubby just yet.  We assumed that this is just a time/cost factor.  We'll definitely be happy to come back...hopefully it'll have some snug corners by then.

We thought it would be a good idea to stroll back the couple of miles in more than one stage so we carried on along the northish side of the harbour thinking to look in the Three Tuns.  We passed it but it also didn't look particularly cosy, either (something we've felt before with the place) so we cut down to the Limekiln.

Now, this is definitely a proper little old pub run by a man (Paul) who definitely knows and loves his beer and makes sure there's something for everyone.  We settled in (sadly the places by the fire were already taken) with "Afghan IPA" (by a brewery I can't remember) which, at 5.4% was just about perfect strength.  I'd also whether 2/3rd was a available and the chap behind the bar had a game look for a 2/3rds glass but came up empty - so I stuck with a pint.  Very lovely it was too.

There were about 7 other folk in the pub and it felt perfectly "peopled".  We reckon that this would be a place that some of our "traditional cask" pals who remain surprised at how readily we'll enthuse about hazy keg beer would be fully approving of.  Must remember to bring them next time they come and stay.

Walking back mostly via backstreets we're reminded how walkable this city is - another reason to love it.

We're heading back to Sussex on Monday, we're excited to be going "home" (or, more correctly "other home") but in about 6 weeks we'll be gagging to be back.

 

 

Resolutions?

 Nope.  Too many other things to concentrate on.

I'm at that part of a period in Bristol when I'm looking forward to going back to Sussex.  I've heard "Your Girl" by Man, Woman, Chainsaw quite enough now, thanks.  I really only listen to Radio6 when I'm here because we share the space we're working in and R6 is a resonable compromise after lunch. 

It's lovely not having an untidy garden to feel guilty about when we're here - what we can see is a fab cityscape and water and all of it is someone else's responsibility.

But actually, I'm missing our scruffy garden and positively looking forward to some winter pruning and tree TLC (oh and ridding the pond of the excessive oyxgenators to ensure that froggies can see it's an actual pond, not some sort of weird astroturf).

The prospect of our organisation's move to a new, bigger space in the next couple of weeks is both headache (funding-wise) and project manager's delight.  We'll have a lot of short-term activity that me and the BBB will share in the new space whilst the rest of our team keep things going on a day to day basis.  We'll feel pretty justified in retiring to the pub after work and we'll soon sort out a new beery routine with Wolf, Frontier, Gun and maybe Ninkasi - whilst trying hard not to neglect current favourites.

So, there's some stuff in prospect that will keep me on my toes.

Talking to Tom Unwin in his brewery yesterday, we're looking forward to seeing what develops with his space.  His beer is really accomplished and we've liked it instantly - the taproom space will catch up and it'll become part of our regular venue list.

I really hope that Moor can find a way through the changes it's been forced to undergo - I hope, also, that it keeps its identity and doesn't become Left-Handed Giant MkII (I love LHG but we don't need another).

Having things to look forward to in both homes is probably why we've never seriously considered letting the flat go yet (I only really needed it whilst elderly parent was in a nearby carehome) but the draw of the beer city is still strong too.  Eastbourne is slowly upping its beer game (not quite as much as some of the neighbouring towns) and hopefully that'll continue.

Beer or pub of the year, though?

Beer:  no, not really.  I've continued to drink really well this year.  Maybe Star of Eastbourne in Wolf on the Corner is the most memorable conjunction of time in the "pub" and beer I wanted to drink more of.

Pub:  Well, Barleymow is perpetual favourite but the newcomer is "Blind Jack's" in Knaresborough.

As we baulk a little at the rising price of beer, we need to remember how much we value our time in the pub, mulling over our day, or planning new stuff, or playing board games or just talking sh*te.  I genuinely don't think I could do the job I do without that time at the end of the day.